Installation Instructions and Build Resources for Angus Sliding Seat and Rigger System

Welcome to the builders' resource page for our sliding seat and rigger system. Here you will find our instructional video, photo album illustrating the build process, FAQs, and information on how to connect the system to your boat. If you have any questions that aren’t answered here, please contact us team(-at-)angusadventures.com. We've also included links to additional information pages below.

Rigger/Slider Construction Photo Gallery (click on photos for additional text instructions)

Information on Rowing Geometry

Rigging Oxford Wherry for Rowing

Description of Angus Rowing System

FAQS

1. Wouldn’t mortise and tenon joints be stronger for the sliding seat frame?
   
   This is a common response from those with a woodworking background. Epoxy filleting is seldom used in cabinetry woodworking (it seems to be used mainly in boat building), whereas the mortise and tenon joint is the industry standard for securing wood meeting at 90 degrees. We’ve learned from experience that properly laid thick fillets offer more than enough strength. We have rowed more than 10,000 km (7000 miles) with our sliding seat frames and the joints have never failed. We haven’t yet had the chance to conduct experiments comparing the strength of the two joints, however, anecdotally, I’ve had many pieces of furniture around the house fail at the mortise and tenon joint. I’ve never had any part of a boat fail with a fillet joint. And epoxy fillets are also easier to form. So, unless you don’t like the look of epoxy fillets, there is no reason to use mortise and tenon joinery.
   
   
2. Can I cut the angle at the end of my sliding seat frame flush with the footplate?
   
   There is a reason why the side panels for the sliding seat frame extend slightly beyond the end of the footplate. Without this extra material, the rear end of the frame can lift when rowing vigorously (if it hasn’t been bolted to the boat).
   
   
3. Wouldn’t a scarf joint be stronger for joining the riggers together instead of a half lap joint?
   
   Absolutely, it would be stronger. This additional strength however, would be unnecessary at the location of the joint. The middle section of the rigger receives very little stress. The self aligning characteristics of the half lap joint make it preferable to a scarf joint for this particular application.
   
   
4. Why don’t you attach the riggers to the sliding seat frame instead of the boat so it’s all one unit like the Piantadosi?
   
   This is certainly something we considered, but ultimately felt there were too many drawbacks. First the riggers need to be substantially stronger/stiffer since they are spanning a greater distance. The sliding frame also has to be beefed up to support the riggers. Overall, you’re going to have a much heavier unit or there’s going to be too much play/flex in the system. Construction would also be more challenging as the riggers would need to be formed from multiple sheets of wood laminated together to create the curves required. Our system is designed to be as light, stiff and simple as possible.
   
   
5. I’d like to use teak instead of pine to create the frame?
   
   This will look great, but it will also weigh significantly more. Your reason for doing this should solely be for aesthetics, and not practical purposes. The benefits of teak – rot resistance, and strength won’t have much merit in this application. Pine is sufficiently strong, and when you’re not rowing it should be stored in a dry location so rot isn’t an issue.
   
   
6. How can I make my pine sliding seat frame look prettier?
   
   While pine is practical, it’s a little lacking in the looks department. If you’ve gone to lengths to make your boat gorgeous, you’ll want your sliding system to match. Fortunately, a coat of stain prior to varnishing can transform your pine into a much prettier wood. Teak or mahogany coloring is a good choice.
   
   
7. My legs touch the rails when I straighten them. Will this be a problem?
   
   No, most people’s legs touch the rails. Once you get out rowing you won’t even notice it. When doing a proper rowing stroke you don’t actually fully straighten your legs so the touching is negligible. We’ve rowed 72 hours non-stop (two people taking shifts) with this system and the ergonomics feel great.

Attaching the Sliding Seat System to your Boat

The standard sliding seat system works in both our Expedition and Oxford Wherry, while slight modifications are made for the Cambridge Racer and Cruiser Rowboat. The means of connecting the system to each boat is slightly different. Below we provide instructions for attaching your system to the Expedition Rowboat and the Oxford Wherry. For those using our sliding system for a canoe, wherry or other type of rowboat, the system for the Oxford Wherry works for most open boats. For information on measurements for installation please visit our rowing geometry page.

Instructions for installing the Sliding Seat System in the Oxford Wherry or other open boat.